Category: Advices

My Recent Betta Spawns

SELECTING BREEDERS

Picture in your mind what the perfect fish should look like.
This perfect fish has all the good features & none of the bad features.
You can’t get there from here if you don’t know where you’re going.

Breeders Rules

1) Do not breed two fish that have the same bad feature – the fry will be twice as bad.
2) Always breed the best male to the best female unless it violates rule #1.
3) When in doubt follow rule #2

 

If you don’t care where you end up then you ain’t lost. Ignore the rules

 

I do sell some of my show quality bettas. I sell my bettas for $35/pr with free USPS priority mail shipping and a 40 hour heat pack at no extra charge. A second female is available for an additional $10. Over night shipping is only $15 more.

Currently I have a limited number of pairs from the following spawns.

 

Platinum Whites

 

Red, orange or gold dragons

 

Single & Double Tail Black & red, Orange Cambodian & Yellow

 

Spring Spawns – Available in August

Talking About Breeding Betta Fish

The best breeding fish are between six months and a year. During the courtship time of the male betta fish he continually makes funny bubbles on the top of the aquarium; this is just his way of making a nest. The male betta fish when in the wild makes bubble nests so that when the female happens by he does his tribal dance with his fins flashing to suitably impress her, when she is suitably so impressed she will spawn after which he will fertilise the eggs.

 

 

It is highly recommended that you purchase a breeding tank if you wish to breed betta fish. A ten gallon bare bottomed tank will be sufficient, but if necessary you can do it with a smaller tank. It is not a complicated chore, but you should condition your betta fish before the breeding commences. This is simply introducing them to live foods.

Introductions are necessary and to do this you must place your bettas in adjoining containers or purchase special tank dividers so that they can see each other without coming into contact. Don’t want them disgracing themselves on their first date do we 🙂

The male will be doing all the one liners whilst the female will turn her back on him in disgust – playing hard to get really, that is of course unless he is really handsome devil. This usually lasts between 3 and 5 days, sometimes a little longer. When they have got to know each other you can put them together in the same tank.

Don’t forget that betta fish like shallow water, so the water should only be about 5 inches deep. In order to help the male make his bubble nest is to put a large leaf in the tank. The pH level should be around 7.0 and the temperature slightly higher than 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

The breeding tank should be about 5 inches deep. Place a large leaf or a piece of foam in it to aid the male in building the bubble nest. When you are selecting the pair of fish you want to breed, take into consideration your favourite shaped fish and its colour that appeals to you. Also take into consideration that the male should be larger than the female and have lots of energy and the more vibrant the colour the better. You will know when the male is ready; he starts to make the bubble nest. The female can lay upwards of 500 eggs and you will notice when she is ready, her stomach will distend and will culminate at the ovipositor – this is the white egg spot that protrudes from the abdomen. When you see vertical stripes on her flanks you will know that she is ready to lay the eggs. If they are horizontal stripes it will mean that she feeling stressful.

It should only take the male betta about 1 or 2 days to blow his bubble nest. Make sure there is a hiding place for the female so that she can make herself scarce after she lays her eggs. Place plants in the tank and this will provide shelter for her. The reason she needs this hiding place is because the male can become very aggressive during the courtship. Typical of us men really 🙂

The two of them circle each other under the bubble nest during the courtship, the male displaying his intense colouring and puffing his fins out to make himself more enticing. For the female to have her fins frayed an losing a few scales is not unusual during the spawning period.

The female will turn over and the male will literally wrap himself around her as she lays her eggs. The female is apt to become sluggish and lethargic, floating to the surface, so don’t be alarmed. This laying her eggs is an exhausting job. The female takes a while to finish the process and this will happen a few times before the job is done. The eggs being fertilised will sink to the bottom. This is when the male will take over and scoop up the eggs in his mouth in order to carry them up to the bubble nest. It is the male who will then become broody and look after his young.

The eggs are fertilized and will sink to the bottom of the tank. Then being the perfect dad he will pick the eggs up in his mouth and place them tenderly into his bubble nest. That’s it; interlude over it was their ‘Brief Encounter’. If the female doesn’t then turn tail and get out of there as quick as possible, the male, just like the female black widow spider will turn on her male partner, the male betta will turn on the female. It is the male beta who cares for the eggs until they hatch, after which he may or may not choose to devour some of his young, so much for being the perfect dad!!

As soon as the mating is over you must remove the female and return her to her own tank or partition of the tank. Please be careful when you do this so that you don’t disturb the nest. It is whilst he is tending to his young that he will show greater aggression to the female. If any of the eggs fall out of the nest the male will scoop them back up and return them to the nest. Within a couple of days the eggs will hatch and the fry (young fish) will hang from the nest with their tails pointing downwards. The fry will live on the yolk sack of their eggs for another couple of days. If they fall out of the nest, just as when they were eggs, the male will scoop them up and put them back.

It takes the fry 3 or 4 days to start swimming, it is when they start to swim freely that you should remove the male or he will EAT THEM. The fry will need feeding twice a day, you can get a supply of baby brine shrimp or a very fine baby food called Daphnia from your pet stores. Alternatively you can feed them a dry mixture called Tetra. Tetra is designed for egg-laying fish, but is very good for the fry. This can also be got from your pet store.

At 2 weeks old you can start changing the water, but be extra careful because they are still very small and fragile. Remember they are still very small and fragile. Remember to be extra careful because fish or a very fine baby food called Daphnia from your pet shop.

You can also feed them Tetra. Tetra is normally for egg-laying fish, but is very good for fry. When the fry reach 2 weeks you can begin small water changes but do be careful as the fry are still very small. Remember that you must never over-feed your fish as the water will become foul very quickly and can be lethal to your fry.

Talking About Fin Rot – Betta Fish Diseases

The symptoms of fin rot are quite easy to determine, the fins start to shred and the edges turn a brownish colour. Your betta will start to look poorly and small holes will start to appear in the fins.

Fin Rot Explained

Fin Rot is brought on by poor water conditions (neglecting the state of the water in the aquarium) causing bacterial infection.

In order to treat this infection you will need a fungus eliminator which is available in most pet stores. Make sure you keep the aquarium water fresh and clean. Purchase some aquarium salt and add 1 teaspoon to every gallon of water your tank holds. I recommend a tank of 3 gallons. Only add this salt when you are changing the water as the salt does not evaporate and will build up a strong toxic level if added on a daily basis. The water should be changed at least once a week or more if it starts to get cloudy earlier. Aquarium salt aids in the betta’s breathing and initiates better recovery processes.

 

Picture shows healthy betta

 

Make absolutely certain that when you are applying the fungal eliminator you check your dosage and only use the prescribed amount written on the package, this is normally about a quarter of a teaspoonful for each gallon of water to be added every third day until there is an obvious improvement in your betta’s fins. I have put the normal dosage here, but still check your product paperwork to make sure what the correct dosage for the eliminator you purchase is. This salt can be used in a preventative way in that you can add the dosage prescribed each time you change the water. This will help to keep your bettas healthy.

It this treatment fails, your betta may be suffering from Flexibacter Columnaris, which can and does get mistaken for Fungal Infection. Flexibacter Columnaris, also known as cotton mouth has the added symptom of white spots or paleness on the edges of the scales and fins. It also appears on the mouth. The way you have to treat this is using copper sulphate, antibiotics and chemicals. The common treatments are Acriflavine, Terramycin and Furan, these are supplied by pet stores. Ask which the storekeeper recommends. Filtration removes the medication from the tank very quickly, so if you have filtration in your aquarium and use carbon filters, then stop using filtration whilst the treatment is ongoing.

You should change the water frequently if the bettas are suffering from Flexibacter Columnaris as it is highly contagious. Be sure to clean all your decoration accessories and gravel at the same time. Any nets, vacuums etc. that you use must be disinfected so that the spread of the disease is curbed. This disease can kill and in chronic cases it appears slowly taking days to kill the fish. It has been known to kill entire population in only a short time, sometimes in only a matter of hours. The disease is accelerated by high water temperatures, but the down side is if you lower the temperature, it will only slow down the process, not stop it. You need to be quick getting treatment for this disease for obvious reason.

 

If you follow these steps, you can reduce the chance of your betta getting fin rot or Flexibacter Columnaris :

– When you purchase new fish, you should quarantine them for at least 2 weeks (disease can be prevalent in pet stores).

– Make sure the tank water is kept fresh and clean

– Make sure the fish are fed on a well balanced diet

– Before using any equipment make sure it is well disinfected in order to stop the chance of spreading bacteria

 

Using these steps to health you will also reduce stress in your fish. Stress is the largest contributor to disease in all animals including humans.

Talking About Betta Fish Care The Correct Way and Deep Details

The first thing that you need to consider when caring for betta fish, is their diet. You might have to go somewhere that sells betta fish such as this site – betta fish for sale. Betta fish are carnivorous animals and they mainly feed off zooplankton and larvae when they are in the wild, however they are not fed these in captivity.

What do betta fish eat?

The usual diet for a betta fish in captivity, would consist of daphnia, bloodworms and brine shrimp. A popular betta fish food, is combination betta pellets, which is basically just a mash up of all the normal food that you would normally feed a betta, except it also has some added vitamins, to boost your betta’s immune system and help it maintain it’s color. Personally, I believe that the combination betta pellets are the best type of food for your betta to have due to the fact that they have added vitamins that your betta would normally miss when just eating bloodworms, daphnia and brine shrimp alone. Some people swear by different types of betta food, but in my experience, I find that combination betta pellets work best.

I often find that varying my betta’s diet helps it to maintain it’s beautiful colors and helps it stay healthy. Varying your betta’s diet will lead to a more varied and balanced diet, which often increases the protein intake of your betta, which will help to repair your betta should it ever get injured.

From my personal experience I often find that giving my betta a set amount of food each day, can be quite harmful to the betta. One thing that I notice, is that when I put too much food in, some of it gets left over, causing bacteria to grow and this can often lead to your betta getting sick more often. I like to break up my betta’s feeding times to between 2-3 times a day. Some days I will give him 2 lots of his food and on others I will give him 3. I do this, because I find that it tends to reduce the amount of food left over after he is finished eating.

When you are choosing what food to give to your betta, keep in mind that betta fish  usually eat from the surface of the water when they are in the wild and so they have a slightly upturned mouth, meaning that it is best if you can buy food that floats, as this will make it so much easier for your betta to eat.

I find that the best thing to do when you are learning about betta care, is to simply experiment within my guidelines and see what works best, because all betta fish are different and some may have a preference. That is just something that you will have to accept as part of the learning process.

 

What are the right tank conditions?

People who are new to betta fish care often ask me what the right tank conditions are for their betta. They often tell me that they hear a lot of contradictory advice. Hopefully I will iron out a few myths about caring for betta fish in the next few paragraphs.

The water in your betta fish’s tank does need to be changed often. Lots of people say every two weeks, however I find that changing it every week gives much better results and my betta seems a lot happier when I change the water weekly. You should avoid changing all of the water in your betta’s tank at once, because this will cause a big shock to your betta because the chemistry of the water will have changed so much. I always try to change about 10-15% of the water every week , so that the betta gets the best balance of a healthy tank, without having to go through a big change in conditions. Please note that you need to do this even if you have a filtering system, because the filtering system does not get rid of all of the bad chemicals.

The temperature of the tank needs to be maintained at around 75 degrees Fahrenheit to keep the betta comfortable. Make sure you measure the temperature when you change the water. The temperature needs to be so specific, because betta fish originate from Asia, where they were used to temperatures of 80 degrees Fahrenheit plus.

 

Transporting your betta

The easiest way to transport your betta is to go to your local pet store and ask for betta transfer cups, but I would imagine that most places sell them. I don’t know the exact name for them, but I have used them a lot and they do a good job. It is basically like a plastic cup/tub thing that has a plastic sheet across the top. You need to put holes in the plastic sheet, so that the betta can get air.

Hopefully this has provided you with enough basic info to make you confident that you will be happy caring for betta fish, although don’t worry, because it can be hard to learn betta care from just a small article. I have put together a completely free betta care secrets email course, where I take you step by step through exactly how to care for your betta. If you would like to learn more about betta care then, I recommend that you sign up for it on the form below. Thanks for reading and good luck!

Betta Fish Caring

The betta fish is a freshwater fish and comes in beautiful and extraordinary patterns. It is one of the easiest to look after and also the most inexpensive one to keep. It doesn’t need much care and attention. Just follow the following simple methods of looking after them and you will have healthy fish.

It is an ideal first time fish and makes a marvellous pet for children to look after. I had my first one when I was about 8 years old. Their life span is about 2 years and comes in many colours such as red, blue, green, purple and white. The males are of much brighter and are more colourful than the females and have larger fins. They are usually about 3 inches long and originate from Thailand, Malaysia some parts of China, Vietnam and Indonesia. They are found in shallow waters, such as ponds, rice paddies and slow moving streams.

Even though Bettas look like normal fish, they are unlike most because they can breathe air the same as humans. It does this by coming to the surface of the water. This is why they are easy to keep, it is not necessary to have an air pump or filtration. Also there is no need for aeration of the tank. They do well in small bowls, but I advise you to use an aquarium that holds 3 gallons, giving room for decorative items, such as, rocks, plastic items etc.,

Never keep two males in the same tank as they will fight to the death (as the common name suggests, Siamese fighting fish). You can keep more than one female in the same tank. Bettas can be kept with other fish. They only fight with their own species, but you must make sure that you don’t put other aggressive fish in that may nip the betta’s fins.

Never over-feed the bettas, once a day is quite enough, but if you do wan to feed it more, make sure you don’t put in more than it takes a couple of minutes to eat. If you do put too much in, make sure you don’t leave the uneaten food in the water. A good food for bettas is dried brine shrimps or freeze dried blood worms, both of which can be got from most pet stores. Bettas don’t like flake food much, but will eat it sometimes. Another food they don’t like is freeze dried worm cubes. Ask your pet store owner which ones they recommend as they sell many foods that are ideal for bettas.

Change the water when it turns a little cloudy. Put the fresh water into a different bowl filled with the decorations of your choice, such as, rocks, plastic plants and shells etc., then let the new water stand for about twenty four hours so that the chemicals are released. It will then be okay to transfer the better into the new water. Remember to make sure that the new water is at the optimum temperature mentioned above. Let the water age at least 24 hours, to let the chlorine dissipate. When the betta has been relocated, clean the dirty bowl and decorations with mild soap, then rinse thoroughly.

The bettas are quite good at jumping, so keep a lid on the tank. Make sure that you have holes in the lid for the reason given above. The betta fish needs fresh air. Another good thing to have in the tank is a live plant as Bettas enjoy resting on the leaves. There is a plant named “Betta Bulbs” that will be great to use. To put a plant in the tank you must put in some gravel, but don’t forget that gravel gets dirty very quickly and needs to be cleaned regularly.

Keep the tank in a warm spot, the temperature needs to be between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Betta Fish Diseases

Here are the symptoms of some common betta fish diseases you can use to try and identify what it is, that is making your betta sick. In most cases the greatest cause of a sick betta is poor water quality and I can’t emphasize enough the importance of properly maintaining your tank.

With that in mind here is the list of the most frequent betta diseases :

Betta Fish Dropsy

There are two signs you should look for in diagnosing betta dropsy:  the first is a bloated or unusally large belly. The second symptom to look for are raised scales, when you look at your betta from a top angle the scales will resemble an open pine cone type shape. see image below.

Betta fish dropsy is usually caused by bacteria that lodges in the body of the fish and affects the kidneys causing water retention in the body. Unless immediate treatment is administered, this condition can be fatal for your betta.

Mouth Fungus

This will resemble a white fungus similar in appearance to cotton that appears around the mouth and lips of your betta. The affected fish may become sluggish and stop eating all together.

Fin Rot

This one of the most common diseases that affect bettas and is rather easy to identify. The fins of your betta will have holes (pin type) in them and have a tattered worn appearance. The cause is usually poor care and seen in new betta’s typically because the pet store didn’t maintain proper tank conditions.

Fortunately this is an easy disease to treat, by making sure the water in your tank is in perfect condition and using aquarium salt. Be sure that ammonia, nitrite, and pH levels are at zero.

Septicimia

This is one of the worst betta fish diseases you can get and should be treated very seriously. It is an infection in the bloodstream that occurs through an open wound either through fighting with other fish or when you betta injures himself. It can also occur through bacteria in your bettas it is important to keep your water conditions especially clean as to not further aggrevate the condition.

It usually manifests as redness under the scales and can be localized in one area or appear throughout the body. It may be hard to identify in red or dark colored fish  Assuming you have corrected any water conditions that may hamper your betta’s recovery, the open wounds will usually heal quickly. Other symptoms are loss of appetite, clamped fins, sluggishness and color loss.

While no one likes to be faced with a sick betta the good news is that in most cases the majority of betta fish illnesses can be easily treated if acted upon quickly. In the majority of cases poor tank conditions are the cause and many problems can avoided all together with proper tank setup and cleaning.

If you would like to know more about betta fish diseases, and how to properly treat and care for you betta. Sign up for our free 12 lesson course that will show you the secrets to having the happiest, healthiest, Betta Fish around!

Sick Betta Fish

Dealing with a sick betta does not have to be a heartbreaking experience. Although very beautiful, betta fish are unfortunately very fragile creatures and everyone will at one point or another have to deal with a disease or other problem.

The first step if your suspect that your betta is sick, is to properly diagnose what is wrong and than determine a proper course of treatment.

 

 

Here are some common symptoms that a sick betta may exhibit :

  • Eratic swimming mostly on his side.
  • A bloated or enlarged belly .
  • Lack of appitite or your betta fish won’t eat.
  • Large bulged or swollen eyes
  • Dull lifeless color -or color is fading.
  • White fungus around on face around lips and mouth.
  • Difficulty breathing.
  • Dark red sores under the scales
  • Ragged or torn fins with pin size holes in them.

If your betta exhibits any of the above symptoms than you are likely dealing with a disease or some enviornmental condition that is causing your betta to be sick. In many cases you can reverse the problem and bring your beatta back to health by making sure that the water conditions in your tank are at prestine conditions.

Make sure that ammonia and Ph levels are at zero and that your water temperature is at a suitable degree. Betta’s are native to tropical climates and a temperature of between 74 -78 degrees Fahrenheit is considered ideal. If your water temperature is to cold your fish’s immune system will be weakened and diseases or other problems will begin to occur.

On the other hand if your water temperature is too hot, bacteria will grow and with polluted water you are inviting diesease. Another  thing to remember is that betta fish have an organ that allows them to breathe air directly from the atmosphere, so it is important to make sure that there is sufficient well venthilated space above the water for them to breathe.

Remember prevention and proper care is always the best strategy to avoid having a sick betta fish. But with quick treatment most problems can be easily reversed and your friend can go on to live a long happy life.